This is not my tutorial but I did go over it and fix all the errors that the original person did, originally it written by phlsphr420 @xbox scene. He wrote up a dual rapid fire mod for left and right trigger but I see no point in the left trigger being rapid fire personally so I changed this one up to only do the right trigger, if you want the original link to do both than PM me and I will send it to you. This does take some basic soldering skill and patience to perform this mod. Please read carefully at first, read again if your confused and than make sure you have a spare controller to do it on. Sorry about the fuzzy pics but I used his pics because I had none that I should have taken.Please read this a couple times to make sure you understand it. Full auto Deagle and Barrett .50 cal's are alot of fun :) but use at your own discretion ;) people will be asking you how you did it... just tell them really fast trigger fingers

For reference, here is cparsell's schematic. There is one mistake in the schematic; it doesn't show that pin 2 of the chip is connected to pin 6 of the chip.


Tools necessary:

Solder Iron

Dremel (preferably)

Torx T8 security screwdriver. NOTE: I couldn’t get find a security screwdriver locally, so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to break the center posts of the screws. I was then able to use my regular T8 screwdriver to take out the screws.



Parts necessary.....Radio Shack identification number

TLC555 Timer.....276-1718

10K ohm resistor.....

1.8K ohm resistor.....I used a 2.2k ohm resistor instead Radio shack doesn't sell any of these resistors there

220 ohm resistor.....

100K ohm potentiometer.....271-284

1uF tantalum capacitor.....272-1434

100pF capacitor.....272-135

Push button switch.....275-0646

NPN switching transistor.....276-1617

Breadboard.....276-159

Wire (personally, I used wire from a scrapped USB cable)If you don't have scrap USB or don't wanna cut up a usb cable than use 30awg wire



**I couldn't find these specific transistors at my local Radio Shack, I used the "general purpose" PNP transistors they they had in stock. They still worked, but I'm not sure if the ones listed above will work better.


Getting Started

NOTE: The breadboard will come in a pack of two, connected. First, I suggest separating them. I used my Dremel. I’m not sure if that is what “pro’s” suggest, but it worked for me.

NOTE: For ease of understanding I will use an alphanumeric labeling system when referring to holes on the breadboard. Ignore the holes on the perimeter of the breadboard. Ignoring them, you should see two rows on the breadboard. Each row is three holes by ten holes. Lay the breadboard on your work surface with the trace side facing down and the rows going vertical, so you see one row on the left and one row on the right. Take a writing utensil and mark the top left dot. That dot will be A1. The dot to the right of that will be B1, to the right of that, C1, and so on. Each column will be a letter and each row will be a number, so the bottom right dot will be F10.



1. Solder the TLC555 timer into the breadboard with pin 1 of the chip in hole C4. Make sure that when you solder the timer onto the board you are soldering it with the chip, as well as all other components/wires, on the side of the board that doesn’t have the traces. It should be common sense, but I like to make sure I cover the simple mistakes, as those are the ones that really get people most the time.



2. Solder a wire connecting pins B4 and B3. I used a black wire, for ground.



3. Solder a wire connecting C3 and D3. Again, I used a black wire for ground.



4. Solder a wire connecting B5 and E6. I used an white wire in the picture.



5. Solder a wire connecting B7 and E4. I used a red wire, for power.

[imghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/phlsphr/HPIM0749.jpg[/img]

6. Solder a four inch long wire to E5. I used another white wire in the picture. I also have the NPN transistor on the board in the picture. You can leave that off for now, that was just a mistake I made while taking pictures. The transistor will get put on in the next step.in this picture the transistor is in backwards, double check this



7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the center of the board

8. Solder another four inch long wire to F6. I used a white wire in the picture.



9. Solder the 100pF capacitor into E3 and E7.



continued...

10. Solder the 220 ohm resistor into C2 and D2.



11. Solder the 1.8K ohm resistor(or your 2.2k resistor) into C1 and D1. Look closely and you’ll see that I’d accidentally soldered an 18k ohm instead of a 1.8k ohm. =P



12. Solder the 10K ohm resistor into F4 and F5.



13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A5.



14. Solder a four inch long wire to B2. I used a green, for trigger.




15. Solder a four inch long wire to B1. Again, I used green, for trigger.



16. Solder a four inch long wire to A3. I used black, for ground.



17. Solder a four inch long wire to B6. I used green, for trigger.



18. Solder a seven inch long wire to A7. I used red, for power.



19. Flip the circuit board over and use a sharpie to draw a square around the holes of the board that you used. This will be your guide for when you are cutting the board down to size to fit inside the controller.



20. Your finished right trigger circuit board should look like this…



Installing the pushbuttons and the potentiometer

1. Take the controller apart and be careful not to ruin anything inside of the controller. Be gentle here with it.

2. Remove the “rumbler” from the controller’s circuit board on the right side.

3. Using a Dremel (preferably) cut all supports for the rumbler out of the casing. This should provide more than enough room for your nearly finished mod. Here are the front and back, post-cut...Just cut the right side of the controller and keep your left rumbler in place...only remove the right side rumbler




^notice that I'd already cut one of the holes for the right trigger's pushbutton. That is the next step...

4. You should see two circles on the inside of the back of the controller casing. I used those as guides for where to put my pushbuttons. They aren’t perfect, but they’re damn closed. Using a Dremel, drill holes into the back of the controller’s casing to allow you to install the pushbuttons. If you want a nice looking end result, I suggest you go slow and steady, comparing your progress with the pushbuttons often to ensure you don’t overcut. If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod then only drill the hole in the right side of the controller.




5. Using a Dremel, cut another hole just below the hole you drilled for the right trigger’s rapid fire button. This hole will be for the potentiometer, so you don’t have to open the controller every time you want to adjust it. Again, go slow and compare often to ensure you have a good looking end result. The picture for this step is above, with the picture of the hole for the right trigger button.

6. Put the pushbuttons into the holes, installing them from the outside and using the captive lock-washers to keep them tight and in place.

7. The potentiometer should have three legs, two on one side and one on the other. Clip one of the legs on the side that has two.



8. Some more experienced may disagree with my following method, but it worked for me, mostly because I was extremely careful. If someone has a better method, I am very willing to learn it. To install the potentiometer, I put superglue around the hole that I’d drilled for it. I then gently held the potentiometer on the hole with the adjustable side facing the exterior of the shell of the controller and the pin side facing in, ensuring that I got no superglue onto the white portion (adjustable part) of the potentiometer. I continued to hold it until it dried.

Installing the right trigger circuit board

NOTE: Trim each wire as necessary, to ensure you don’t end up with a “spaghetti mess” of wires in your controller, before soldering.[/color]

1. Solder the wire from B2 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the pushbutton for your right trigger

2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.

3. Solder the wire from E5 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the potentiometer/trimmer

4. Solder the wire from F6 of the circuit board to the remaining lead of the potentiometer/trimmer. You should now have two wires soldered to the potentiometer, one on each side of it, not two wires on both sides. Remember, I instructed you to cut one of the two leads that are on one side of the potentiometer in Step 7 of Installing the pushbuttons and potentiometer. Your project should now look something like this:



5. Solder the wire from A7 to the Power point of the controller’s circuit board.



6. Solder the wire from B3 to the Ground point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In my picture it is the point with the black wire soldered to it on the right hand side of the controller.



7. Solder the wire from B1 to the Trigger point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In the picture in step 6 above, it is the point with the green wire soldered to it on the right side of the controller’s circuit board, just below the black one mentioned in step 5.

Reassemble the controller carefully, making sure to avoid pinching any of your wires

And there you have it. You should now have a fully-functional rapid fire controller. Simply adjust the potentiometer as necessary for the setting you feel comfortable with.

I saw this tutorial somewhere else and i tryed it, but the controller didnt put out enough power to make the circuit work, did you fix that? (Oh and i had an old wireless controller if that makes any difference)

This is for old wireless controllers not the newer ones. You can tell the difference when its taken apart there will be either one chip at a 45 degree angle (newer) or two chips sitting flat (older. which is what this is for) I had no problems as far as power output though like you are talking about. I also use a recharge pack and not batteries either but whichever way both should work fine. Double check all your connections and make sure you don't have any cold solder joints on anything than test it all out again.

so where did u buy the rersiters at

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or you can just buy 1 of ebay for about £50 or $100

All part numbers are radio shack part numbers. So all parts were bought at Radioshack

can you extend the guide to include the left trigger wiring? or are those wires there and you forgot to wire them in. cuz cparsell's had the wires for left trigger also.

also, any chance you can take better pictures of the soldering on the board for the points to the trigger and the one for the power?


also, how the hell did you get 5v off of a 3v controller? 2 aas=3v.

very very hard.
by the way don't click on crazy dog 090's link "mylazysundays"

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hmmm, i didnt get it to work. where does the wire from B6 go? thats the only wire i dont know where it goes. and when ur sotering r u sotering to the board or to the timer/ other parts

got any tips for beginers?